One of the most common questions I am asked as a climbing guide is… “What are your favorite climbs at Devils Lake” or “I only have 1 day, what climbs should I definitely get after?” With that in mind I wanted to put up my personal Devils Lake Climbing Ticklist (under 5.11)…
Devils Lake Climbing Ticklist
Devils Lake West Bluff:
Queens Throne (5.4) – Easy climbing w/ great view at top. Good intro to climbing at the Lake.
Celopatra’s Needle – Easy Comfort Route (5.4) – Classic line. Closest thing we have to desert towers in the mid-West.
The Bone (5.5) – Great movement for the grade, very fun well protected beginner lead.
The Lost Face (5.6) – One of the longer climbs at the Lake at 100′.
Wissners Face (5.7) – Great movement on slabby face w/ excellent exposure, great lead on small gear.
Bread Board (5.10a+) – Super techy climbing w/ powerful moves on tiny crimps.
Devils Lake East Bluff:
Brenton’s Crack (5.6) – Has been rated as one of the best climbs for the grade in the States. If you are going to climb anything at the Lake, definitely get on this line and try to lead it if you can. Protects well with a super airy traverse!!!
Upper Diagonal (5.9) – My second favorite climb at the Lake… great pumpy mixed size crack climbing, reminds me of Ski Tracks in Joshua Tree.
Stretcher (5.9+) – Fun “reachy” face climbing.
Congratulations (5.10a) – The best finger crack at the Lake period.
Devils Lake Sandstone Area:
Curving Crack (5.8) – Super fun right leaning crack. Last 15′ is the business. Great lead.
Mammelary Magic (5.10a) – My favorite climb at the Lake… slabby face on tiny friction holds moving between quartzite pebbles, beautiful beautiful beautiful climbing!
Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b) – Pumpy undercling traverse to more slabby face… great test of power endurance and technique.
If you would like more information, all of these climbs can be found on Mountain Project. There is some incredible climbing at Devils Lake. Hopefully this ticklish will help you narrow down where to focus if you are only planning a short trip.